Credit Card Rules for Students

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While having a credit card, or cards, seems like a great idea for college students, rarely does anyone ever stopped to tell students the do’s and don’ts involving credit. 

Fortunately, there are several rules for using credit that every college kid (and even us older folks) needs to learn and practice:

credit.jpg1. Establish credit early, but use one credit card. Having clean, active charge accounts maintained over several years will boost your score. If you’re averse to credit on principle, consider setting up automatic monthly payments for utilities on a credit card account so that there will be at least some activity. Many first-time credit card users accumulate a collection of credit cards within their first few years of using credit. This is not advisable. Most credit counselors agree that the more credit you have, the more you’ll end up using.

2. Charge only what you can afford to pay. If you can’t afford to purchase something with cash, you shouldn’t use credit as an alternative. When you get into the habit of charging only what you can afford, it allows future lenders and creditors know that you are a responsible borrower. As a result, you’ll find it easier to borrow in the future.

3. Don’t max out available credit on credit card accounts. Staying below 50% of your credit limit is wise, and below 30% is even better. Just because you have available credit, it doesn’t mean that it should be used. Maxing out your credit cards – or even coming close – is one of the most irresponsible ways of using credit. Lenders know that borrowers who max out their cards often have difficulty repaying what they’ve borrowed because there is a good chance that if a person has maxed out their credit they are already having financial problems.

4. Don’t apply for too much credit within a short period of time. Multiple requests for your credit history (not including requests by you to check your file) will reduce your score. If you’re shopping around for good loan rates, always assume that every time you give your Social Security number to a lender or credit card company, they will order a credit history.

5. Be neat and consistent when filling out credit applications. This will ensure that all your good deeds get recorded in a single file, as opposed to multiple files or, worse, someone else’s file. Watch out for inconsistencies in use of “Jr.” and “Sr.”

6. Pay your bills on time, especially rent payments. This tip should be obvious. Apart from extreme circumstances like bankruptcy, nothing has as big an impact on your credit history as late payments.  Besides, if you’re only charging what you can afford to pay, this won’t be a problem. Paying off your balance each month shows that you’re capable of paying bills, something creditors and lenders want to see. Since a large part of your credit score includes timeliness of your payments, paying your balances on time provides a huge boost to your credit.

Of course, many of us haven’t followed these rules in our own use of credit and our credit history has suffered as a result. In next week’s column I’ll discuss how you can obtain a copy of your credit score so that you can evaluate where your use of credit needs to improve. We’ll also discuss how to correct your score if your credit history contains any errors.

Click Here to Learn More about Credit Repair.

To Your Success!

Mark

One Credit Repair Help
Foreclosure Fraud Alert

Be Careful When Using a Credit Repair Company

Can credit repair companies ruin your credit score?

How $23,000 in credit card debt cannot be magically erased

By Sally Herigstad

To Her Credit
Sally Herigstad is a certified public accountant and the author of
“Help! I Can’t Pay My Bills: Surviving a Financial Crisis” (St.
Martin’s Press, 2006).

Ask a question.

“To Her Credit” archives

Question for the CreditCards.com expert

Dear To Her Credit,
My husband and I have an insanely high total credit card debt of
$23,000, spread across 10 cards. We no longer use them, and we are
working on paying them off. My question: Isn’t it true that the
companies who consolidate and reduce credit card balances damage credit
ratings, much like bankruptcy? I see them advertised and they make it
look so easy, but I can’t believe that settling a debt for less than
the balance won’t hurt one’s credit score. — Jo Anne

Answer for the CreditCards.com expert

Dear Jo Anne,
Your instincts are right — it’s not as easy and consequence free as the ads make it sound.

Not all companies do the same thing, however. Simply consolidating your
debts — taking one loan to pay off your other debts — may actually
help your score. After all, your creditors get paid in full, plus you
should have a better chance of keeping up with the payments when they
are lower. You can do this kind of “consolidation” yourself by finding
a better loan, a personal loan, or even a home equity loan, and paying
off high interest loans.

When a company promises to cut your debt in half or some such thing,
however, that’s another story. According to Erica Sandberg, president
of Sandberg Financial Education Services, doing so will definitely
affect your ability to get credit. “It doesn’t impact the score. It has
an impact on how other lenders see you.”

I don’t recommend that you use a debt reduction company for several reasons:

  • Not all debt reduction companies are the most
    well-respected businesses. In fact, for-profit debt reduction companies
    are illegal in some states.
  • They can’t do anything for you
    that you can’t do yourself. And they charge plenty. That’s money better
    spent paying off debts. (That low fee they advertise is just the
    beginning!)
  • Debt reduction companies only make sense when
    people are far, far behind in their payments and will probably go
    bankrupt without it. In your case, you’re better off just paying the
    debts.
  • Your creditors may still sue you or take other
    measures to collect if they find out you are dealing with a debt
    reduction company.
  • The company cannot guarantee that it can lower your balance, or how much they will be able to.
  • If
    the company succeeds in getting your balance lowered, you’ll owe income
    tax on the amount of the reduction. The IRS sees forgiveness of a debt
    the same as income, so just when you think you’ve gotten out of debt,
    you could get a big tax bill.
  • Yes, using a debt reduction
    company will affect how creditors see you, which may cause you to pay
    higher interest rates or even have trouble getting credit in the
    future. That could cancel out any money you save now.
  • Finally,
    using a debt reduction company to get out of debts doesn’t solve
    anything long term. Like bankruptcy, debt reduction leaves you with the
    same circumstances that got you in trouble in the first place. If your
    expenses exceeded your income, they still do. If one or both of you
    can’t hang on to money, that’s still true.

More important than your credit score is the fact that you have a high
burden of debt. It’s not the worst debt I’ve seen; In fact, it’s only
about twice the national average for a family. Still, it’s causing you
stress — and costing you a lot of interest! “She’s focusing on one
thing, her credit score,” Sandberg says. “You’re paying all this debt
and you’re worried about your score? Get your debt down!”

It’s time to make a plan to take charge of your financial life. You
don’t need a debt reduction company to fix things. You can keep working
on paying those debts off while you make plans for the future. Take
care of your bigger financial picture, and your credit score will be
fine.

See related: The good guys of credit repair

Sally
Herigstad writes about women and credit every week for CreditCards.com.
Herigstad is a writer and finance consultant for MSN Money, a personal
finance software product. She is also a member of the Washington
Society of Certified Public Accountants and the American Institute of
Certified Public Accountants. Her Web site is http://helpicantpaymy
bills.net. Sally Herigstad lives in Kent, Wash., with her husband Gary.
They have two grown children, Valia and Grant.

To Her Credit answers a question about a debt or credit issue from a CreditCards.com reader each week.
Send your question to Sally.

Published: September 5, 2008

Click Here to Learn More about Credit Repair.

To Your Success!

Mark

One Credit Repair Help
Foreclosure Fraud Alert

Sixteen Rules on Choosing Which Debts to Pay First

Sixteen Rules on Choosing Which Debts to Pay First

drowning in debtWhen long on bills and short on money you should direct your limited resources to what is most necessary for you or your family– typically food, clothing, shelter and utility service.  Unfortunately, there is no universally accepted magic list that provides the best order in which debts should be paid.  Everyone’s situation will be different.  The following list of sixteen rules about how to set priorities is from “Surviving Debt” (National Consumer Law Center, 3rd ed. 1999).

1. Always Pay Family Necessities First. Usually this means food and essential medical expenses.

2. Next Pay Your Housing-Related Bills. Keep up your mortgage or rent payments if at all possible. If you own your home, real estate taxes and insurance must also be paid unless they are included in the monthly mortgage payment. Similarly, any condo fees or mobile home lot payments should be considered a high priority. Failure to pay these debts can lead to loss of your home.

If you are having very serious unresolvable problems which require you to move to a cheaper residence, you might choose to stop paying the mortgage or rent. When you do so, you should not use that money to pay other debts, but rather save it as a fund to use for moving.

3. Pay What You Must to Keep Essential Utility Service. While this may not always require full payment (such as during a winter moratorium on disconnections), whatever payments are necessary should be made if at all possible. Working hard to keep your house or apartment makes little sense if it is not livable because you have no utilities…

credit repair and debt consolidation4. Pay Car Loans or Leases Next If You Really Need Your Car. If you need your car to get to work or for other essential transportation, you will usually make your car loan or lease payments next after food, housing costs, medical expenses, utilities, and clothing. You may even want to pay for the car first if the car is essential to holding onto your job.

If you do keep the car, stay current on your insurance payments as well. Otherwise the creditor may buy for you at your expense even more costly collision and theft insurance that gives you much less protection. In most states it is also illegal not to have automobile liability coverage. If you can do without your car or one of your cars, you not only save on car payments, but also on gasoline, repairs, insurance, and the like.

5. You Must Pay Child Support Debts. These debts will not go away and can result in very serious remedies–including prison for nonpayment.

6. Income Tax Debts Are Also High Priority. You must pay any income taxes you owe that are not automatically deducted from your wages, and you certainly must file your federal income tax return even if you cannot afford to pay any balance due. The government has many rights which other creditors do not have, particularly if you do not file your tax return. Remember, though, if you have lost income due to a change of circumstances, your tax obligations will also be reduced. Pay only what is necessary

7. Loans Without Collateral Are Low Priority. Most credit card debts, attorney, doctor and hospital bills, and other debts to professionals, open accounts with merchants, and similar debts are low priority. You have not pledged any collateral for these loans, and there is rarely anything that these creditors can do to hurt you in the short term. Many won’t bother to try to collect in the long term.

8. Loans With Only Household Goods Collateral Are Also Low Priority. Sometimes a creditor requires you to put some of your household goods up as collateral on a loan. You should generally treat this loan the same as an unsecured debt that is as a low priority. Creditors rarely seize household goods because they have little market value, it is hard to seize them without court process, and it is time consuming and expensive to use a court process to seize them.

9. Do Not Move a Debt Up in Priority Because the Creditor Threatens Suit. Many threats to sue are not carried out. Even if the creditor does sue, it will take a while for the collector to be able to reach your property, and much of your property may be exempt from seizure. On the other hand, non-payment of rent, mortgage and car debts may result in immediate loss of your home or car.

10. Do Not Pay When You Have Good Legal Defenses to Repayment. Some examples of legal defenses are that goods purchased were defective, or that the creditor is asking for more money than it is entitled to. If you have a legal defense, you should obtain legal advice to determine whether your defense will succeed. In evaluating these options, remember that it is especially dangerous to withhold mortgage or rent payments without legal advice.

11. Court Judgments Against You Move Up in Priority, But Often Less Than You Think. After a collector obtains a court judgment, that debt often should move up in priority, because the creditor can enforce that judgment by asking the court to seize certain of your property, wages, and bank accounts. Nevertheless, how serious a threat this really is will depend on your state’s law, the value of your property, and your income. It may be that all your property and wages are protected under state law, and then you should still pay this debt only after more pressing obligations.

12. Student Loans Are Medium Priority Debts. They should generally be paid ahead of low priority debts, but after top priority debts. Most delinquent student loans are backed by the United States and federal law provides special collection remedies against you which other creditors do not, such as seizure of your tax refunds and denying you new student loans and grants.

13. Debt Collection Efforts Should Never Move Up a Debt’s Priority. Be polite to the collector, but make your own choices about which debts to pay based on what is best for your family. Debt collectors are unlikely to give you good advice. Debt collectors may be most aggressive to get you to pay debts which you should actually pay last. You can easily stop debt collection contacts and you have legal remedies to deal with collection harassment.

14. Threats to Ruin Your Credit Record Should Never Move Up a Debt’s Priority. In many cases, when a collector threatens to report your delinquency to a credit bureau, the creditor has already provided the credit bureau with the exact status of the account. And if the creditor has not done so, a collector hired by the creditor is very unlikely to do so. In fact, your mortgage lender, your car creditor, and other big creditors are much more likely to report your delinquency (without any threat) than is a debt collector that threatens you about your credit record.

15. Cosigned Debts Should Be Treated Like Your Other Debts. If you have put up your home or car as collateral on a loan, that is a high priority debt for you if the other co-signers are not keeping the debt current. If you have not put up such collateral, treat cosigned debts as a lower priority. If others have cosigned for you and you are unable to pay the debt, you should tell your cosigner about your financial problems so that he or she can decide what to do about that debt.

16. Refinancing Is Rarely the Answer. You should always be careful about refinancing. It can be very expensive and it can give creditors more opportunities to seize your important assets. A short term fix can lead to long term problems.

Click Here to Learn More about Credit Repair.

To Your Success!

Mark

One Credit Repair Help
Foreclosure Fraud Alert

Credit Tips That Will Help You Score Lower Interest Rates

Credit Tips That Will Help YouScore Lower Interest Rates

A good credit score translates into lower interest rates for home-shopping borrowers. In a mortgage lender’s eyes, the higher your score is, the less risk you are, and the more likely it is you will pay off your debt. For this reason, borrowers with lower scores usually end up paying higher interest rates on their loans.

If this is you, don’t panic. There are a number of things you can do to adjust your credit score to receive a favorable review from the underwriter. Here are a few suggestions:

Should I pay off all my past due balances and charge-offs?
This is usually a good idea, but you only need to worry about the past due balances and charge-offs that have occurred in the last two years. Items more than two years old have little effect on your current credit score. In fact, if you pay off delinquent items over two years old, it can actually bring your credit score down - something you don’t want to do. Bringing that score up means you’ll get a better interest rate on your loan.

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Should I close existing credit card accounts that I don’t use?

No. Part of your credit score is based upon credit history. If you have old credit cards that you don’t use very much, you still have the benefit of the credit history they represent.

Rather than trying to pay off all your credit cards, you can move part of the debt from one card to another to even out the distribution of debt. Try to keep balances as close to zero as possible, and definitely below 30% of the available credit limit when trying to purchase a home. Also, if your credit provider will increase your line of credit, the ratio of debt to available credit is automatically reduced.

When married couples have separate credit card accounts, the debt can be transferred from one spouse to another to clear up credit issues for the other spouse. That spouse with clean credit can be designated as the sole borrower on the loan, but ownership of the home can still go in both names.

What about errors on my credit report?

If you have items that are showing up on your credit report that you know you have already paid, request that these items be removed by the credit bureau. They are obligated to rectify this within 30 days.

If there are items on your credit report that are less than two years old, send in your payment if possible and mark the back of the check with the following notation: “Accepting this check is evidence that the transaction is complete and this charge will be deleted from my credit record.” If necessary, the cancelled check will be proof that this should be promptly removed from your credit report if it interferes with the closing of your loan.

Click Here to Learn More about Credit Repair.

To Your Success!

Mark

One Credit Repair Help
Foreclosure Fraud Alert